After four months in San Diego, we were itching to get moving. We packed up the minivan and left for Baja on April first. At the border, they simply waved us through, but we had to make a quick stop to pick up our FMM tourist cards. We had already picked up our car insurance (about $200/year – which was cheaper than a six-month policy – if you stop at one of the drive-thru places just before the border) and bought Mexico fishing licenses online (about $45/year or $35/one month).

By late afternoon we arrived at our first destination of El Socorrito, about five hours south of the border. Back when we had our sailboat, Camille, we sailed down the Baja peninsula with just one stop in Bahia Tortuga before turning left at Cabo and heading into the Sea of Cortez. Looks like we missed a lot of great sights, but there just aren’t many protected places to anchor along the Baja Pacific coast. Back then, we found this guide very helpful.

Breakfast for one under the protection of the dune at our first rental while Mike is off surfing. Glad we always bring our chairs and table along since this place didn’t have much outdoor seating. 

We even brought along our folding bikes.

 

After a few days, it was time to head further south to Guerrero Negro, just south of the border between Baja Norte and Baja Sur. The lagoon here is a designated UNESCO world heritage site for its sanctuary for birds and migrating whales. We took the inflatable kayak and paddleboard across the lagoon to the barrier island which is made up entirely of white sand dunes. We had planned on walking to the Pacific but soon realized that over eight kilometers through very soft sand would be quite a trek.

We also spent a day at the beach at Laguna Manuela an hour to the north of Guerrero Negro. Going anywhere in Baja seems to involve a lot of offroading. Our poor front-wheel-drive van bounces and rattles as I cringe and brace. But we end up with these views, a yellow-sand beach, and an emerald ocean all to ourselves. Can you spot our van?

 

So far we’ve been able to find places to rent for around $60 per night, but as we head further south it’s getting harder to find those deals. The place we stayed in Guerrero Negro was especially nice.

A few days later, we drove another three hours to San Bruno on the Sea of Cortez side of the peninsula. The house is older but the views and friendly neighborhood dogs sure make up for it! The harbor at San Bruno is just a few houses from where we are staying. Our neighbors were even nice enough to take Mike fishing! From San Bruno, we took a day trip out to Punta Chivato for some snorkeling as we are finally into some warmer water now that we are on the Sea of Cortez side. Punta Chivato seems to be an ex-pat, off-grid community for the rich and maybe even famous, only reachable by airplane or a very bumpy and dusty car ride. There were blue starfish, but sadly this is the best photo I was able to get since the waterproof case for my camera started to leak — due to operator error.

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